CHAMONIX - Introduction
Set at the foot of Europe's highest mountain, Mont Blanc with its summit at 16,000ft, is Chamonix; one of skiing and climbings spiritual homes. The skiing is impressive and so are the opportunities for après ski. There are over 200 shops, numerous bars and restaurants, four nightclubs and an international casino, as well as activities such as skating, curling, indoor tennis, squash, swimming, bowling, fitness centre, saunas, snowshoeing, ice climbing, paragliding and 17km of Alpine walks. The area provides good skiing for all levels and includes some of the most challenging terrain in the Alps. Argentiere lies just 8kms further up the valley from Chamonix and provides great access to the pistes of the Grands Montets with exhilarating runs on the glacier. Less advanced skiers will enjoy the gentler slopes in Les Chosalets.
Skiing
The Mont Blanc lift pass covers eight ski areas within the Chamonix valley, from the gentle tree-lined slopes of Les Houches to the glaciers of Grand Montets above Argentière, and boasts over 700km of terrain. The price to pay for this wealth of choice is the fragmented layout. Nearest to town is Le Brévent, its mainly reds and blues accessed by a six-person gondola. La Flégère is also mainly intermediate and there’s a lift now linking it with Brévent. The views across the valley to Mont Blanc are jaw-dropping and not to be missed. Le Tour and Les Houches are at opposite ends of the valley and excellent for beginners and intermediates, while Grands Montets in the middle is where the experts head. Snow cover on the north-facing higher slopes is good while lower, south-facing areas such as Brévent and Flégère suffer in warmer weather. Chamonix is not the place to choose if you’ are a beginner as in a mixed group you’ll be learning in a completely separate area.
Snowboarding
Perhaps not the best place to learn but more confident boarders love it here for the off-piste and powder. Grands Montets has a fun park and half-pipe and Le Tour has a natural gully which doubles as a half-pipe. Vallée Blanche is worth a try, but watch out for the flat spots. Chamonix has long been known as the extreme freeriding capital of Europe.
Ski Schools
As you would expect you can have lessons in a huge variety of skiing techniques from telemarking and ski touring, to carving and moguls. SkiExtras recommeds Evolution 2 ski school where they offer regular group lessons. Children taught from age 4 years upwards and there is childcare at the Panda Club from 6 months, and at Maison Pour Tous from 18 months. Don’t forget to let us give you a quote.
Eating Out
When it comes to mountain food, the views are more of a highlight here, the Panoramique at Brévent being one of the best. At Grands Montets, Plan Joran and Longnon are popular for their sunny, sheltered terraces. In town, the Quatre Saisons in the Albert Ler Hotel is the best place to eat in Chamonix, but the prices are not for the fainthearted! At the other end of the scale, the Crochon does budget food with no frills. For something, different the Cantina is an excellent Mexican, and cosy Swedish owned Munchies serves Thai and Asia/Pacific dishes, whilst for local specialities the best place is Bergerie.
Bars and clubs
Chambre Neuf in Hotel Gustavia heaves with après-skiers until 8pm and Driver and Choucas usually packed until the sun goes down. Wild Wallabies, as you would expect, is rough and ready and has live music most nights. They do a nice Sunday lunch too. The Bumble Bee is a tiny bar with wicked food – a cool place to go for a drink, if you can squeeze in. The British-run Pub is where the resort reps relax and is a good meeting place, whilst The Jekyll is an Irish bar and restaurant with great atmosphere and the most amazing chips. Up in Argentière, the Office Bar is the place to go for après-ski or all-night revelry.
Off the slopes
There’s more here for non-skiers than in most French resorts, especially if you have a car. The beautiful town of Annecy isn’t too far, but in town there’s great shopping. One reader voted Peak Performance as “Shop of the year”. There’s also a museum, cinema, bowling ally and sports centre, and for an eyeful of stunning Alpine scenery, a ride in the cable car up to the Aiguille du Midi, is a must. You can always try your hand at ice-climbing or mountaineering as the area is the place in Europe to learn these 'extreme' sports.